Thanks for your comment here are more detailed explanations of the possibilities and limitations of your post fired metal clay jewelry… If you are interested in working with metal clay, give me a follow so you can be sure to learn all of my helpful tips!
Post Fire Metal Clay Can and Can’ts
CAN
1- Brighten with a metal brush (metal clay pieces come out dull after firing, using a metal brush helps brighten them up before polishing)
2-Hammer (you can hammer your pieces, for example to round out a ring shank, however since metal clay is porous be careful not to over hammer and cause a crack, you can always add more clay and re-fire to fix the crack, but its more work)
3- Drill holes, or use different burs to add texture, using a Dremel or flex shaft (you can also use a saw to cut pieces too)
4- Sand with all grits
5- Polish with radial disks, polishing rubber and burs. And my favorite, polish them using a tumbler machine
6- Oxidize sterling silver with liver of sulfur
7- Plate your piece in a plating bath as you would any other metal, I find sterling silver is much easier to plate than the bronze
8- Engrave with hand engravers or an engraving machine
9- Set Stones (for stones that cannot withstand the high kiln temps you can set them after firing) (remember to be careful as metal clay is more likely to crack when bending around stones as it is porous)
10- Fix cracks, imperfection, add more elements by adding fresh clay and re-fire as many times as you need. (Best to use Clay Tack to get fresh clay to stick on post fired metals) (Better hold to unpolished metal) (Bonze color may start to vary after many re-fires)
Can’ts
1- Solder sterling silver and bronze
2- Heavily bend (your bronze and sterling silver pieces will differ in level of bending, best to bend while metal is just out of clay- in its most malleable form)
both of these don’ts is due to the porosity of metal clay
CONTACT
Instagram: @madelineelizabethjewelry
Tik tok: @madelizjewelry
Email: madelineelizabethjewelry@gmail.com